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In the mirror, I seem to have on enormous gilded pantaloons, visible only to me. Children sit in a rock pool pretending to be ocean creatures, meanwhile adjacent sits a talking pea in a showcase, next to a imposing stack of bedding. It embodies the universe of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s most beloved writers. I’m in the city of Odense, on the island of the island of Fyn in the southern region of Denmark, to explore the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his demise, and to find a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the town's exhibition space honoring the writer, including his first home. A museum representative states that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. His personal history was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For guests who visit the city looking for narrative enchantment, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of downtown Odense, redirecting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to reimagine how the renowned native could be honored. An international design contest gave the Japanese company Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the structure. The unique timber-clad museum with interwoven curving spaces opened to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to build a place where we don’t talk about the author, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with wit, sarcasm and perspective,” notes the representative. Even the gardens embrace this concept: “This is a landscape for wanderers and for large beings, it’s designed to make you feel small,” he notes, a challenge accomplished by strategic landscaping, manipulating elevation, size and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

Andersen wrote multiple personal accounts and frequently contradicted himself. The museum takes this approach seriously; frequently the views of his friends or fragments of letters are shown to subtly challenge the his narrative of happenings. “The writer is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” notes the curator. The outcome is a fascinating whirlwind tour of his personal story and art, mental approaches and best-loved tales. This is stimulating and whimsical, for adults and youngsters, with a bonus underground make-believe land, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the actual city, the modest urban center of this Danish city is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and historic timber buildings painted in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the street signals show the storyteller with his iconic top hat, metal shoe prints offer a no-cost pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this focus culminates with the annual storytelling event, which celebrates the his influence through art, dance, stage shows and melodies.

During my visit, the seven-day event had 500 shows, many were complimentary. While visiting the city, I meet artistic acrobats, fantastical beings and an Andersen lookalike narrating adventures. I experience contemporary performances and observe an incredible late-night performance with acrobatic dancers descending from the municipal structure and dangling from a mechanical arm. Still to come during the season are talks, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the oral history further than the writer, the city’s yearly wonder event.

All good enchanted locations deserve a castle, and the island features 123 castles and stately homes across the island

Cycling and Exploration

As in other Danish regions, bicycles are the best way to navigate in Odense and a “cycling highway” curves through the downtown area. Starting at Hotel Odeon, I ride to the free waterside bathing area, then beyond the city for a route around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass linked by a road to the primary land. Local inhabitants picnic here following their day, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment angling, water sports or taking a dip.

Back in town, I visit the themed restaurant, where the menu is based on Andersen themes and narratives. The literary work the national ode is highlighted when I visit, and proprietor the restaurateur reads extracts, rendered in English, as he introduces the meal. Such encounters commonplace in my visit, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it feels as though sharing tales is always available here.

Manor House Visits

Each wonderful magical places require a castle, and the island contains over a hundred manors and stately homes around the area. Going on excursions from town, I explore the historic fortress, the continent's most intact historic fortress. Although large sections are open to visitors, this historic site is also the personal dwelling of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I ponder if she would notice a pea through a mound of {mattresses